Photography by Duglas Andreetti
Trattoria Contemporanea offers a taste revolution that began in 2021 in what was in the 19th century a cotton mill in Lomazzo, near Como, and which now bears the name Fabbrica campus. This is not just a simple co-working space, but is also the perfect place for networking and the exchanging of ideas, creativity and innovation. Equipped with all the services and comforts needed by people who are working, Fabbrica seeks to rethink the world of work and break the old paradigms. Its ground-breaking approach is reflected in its tagline of A different place. A place for the brave, which has inspired its Talking Brave podcasts and events that aim to galvanise the Fabbrica community through stories told by successful men and women.
It is no coincidence that leading the very young brigade and the dining room there are four chefs who are all under 30 years of age but who have had experience in renowned Italian and international kitchens. This has led their devising a philosophy for experimental, intriguing and never mundane cuisine. From their training abroad, they have learnt organisation, independence and tenacity, while their experiences in Italy have given them an understanding of the value of tradition, as well as instilling in them respect for the ingredients and all the produce of the earth. Thanks to the enterprising spirit of the brigade and the revolutionary nature of the project, within a year of opening, Trattoria Contemporanea was already able to win that most coveted of accolades for cuisine with its first MICHELIN Star.
The dishes at Trattoria Contemporanea are constantly changing so it is impossible to pigeonhole the cuisine, which can however be summed up by the idea of 'Contemporary Dining'. The guest enjoys a multi-sensory journey made up of numerous elements that are harmoniously organised to give an unparalleled gastronomic experience. The contemporary nature of this place is evident in the innovative, young and informal nature of the dishes, as well as in the service, which is always attentive and professional, but also welcoming and informal. The cuisine created by the chefs is a tribute to tradition, as the name Trattoria suggests, recalling those haunts of workers who would gather back in the day for a frugal lunch. This idea has been reinterpreted in a playful and in some ways irreverent manner, but with an awareness of the value of the quality ingredients, the landscape that produces them and the cycle of the seasons that governs them.
Centre stage in the dishes of Trattoria Contemporanea is taken by the traditional ingredients of the local people, sourced from selected nearby suppliers. These simple ingredients at the heart of the cuisine are elevated and enhanced by the skilful culinary techniques that have been perfected by the chefs, who are able to bring out all the flavours with often unexpected combinations. Among the many dishes that make up the new menu, the brigade is particularly attached to three of their recipes: Tettina di vitella, a fun, unexpected and playful offering, where spiciness features in a starring role; Calf's brains, red turnip and raspberry, their beloved 'white lie' to bring customers closer to the world of the ‘fifth quarter’ people’s food, and finally Pop-corn, a non-sweet dessert made with corn, salted caramel ice cream and pop-corn mousse.
In addition to the à la carte menu, Trattoria Contemporanea offers three special tastings that encapsulate all the core values and hallmarks of the 'Contemporary Dining' that characterises the restaurant's vision. Istinto is a four-course vegetarian menu, three savoury and one sweet, in which the strictly seasonal vegetables are combined with ingredients from all over the world in a spirit of constant experimentation. Passione, on the other hand, presents five hearty courses that have succeeded in capturing the hearts of and amazing guests since the Trattoria's opening. Finally, Coraggio offers true creative flair with seven off-menu courses that stay a secret until tasted. The gastronomic experiences are complemented by top-quality wines from small producers, as well as cocktails, infusions and drinks from ethnic cuisines, such as the sake and kombucha. To conclude, there is the slow coffee service with chemex coffee.
Contemporaneity is embodied in equal measure in the spaces of the Fabbrica campus and the Contemporary Trattoria through an integrated work experience that embraces both the professional and gastronomic. All of this experience is set in an open, welcoming and sustainably designed environment. The interior furnishings are custom-made, with simple and clean lines, but nevertheless create a cosy and intimate atmosphere where kitchen and dining room, and brigade and guests become the co-travellers on an exciting journey through taste, fragrance and sophisticated presentation.