Photography by Roberto Anzani
At the boundary between Erba and Ponte Lambro, in the narrow streets of the hamlet of Carpesino, there is an old-style osteria, or inn, where traditional wooden tables, wood-beamed ceilings, crates of wine on the walls, and friendly, informal service all go to establish a homely and convivial atmosphere. Marco Mori established Da Morris Vineria e Cucina in 2018, embarking on his adventure with the solid foundation of experience gained from many years in the restaurant business. He set out with the very clear idea of offering simple and but quality cuisine that would be accessible to everyone, both in terms of affordability and in terms of the variety of tastes and preferences catered for, providing meals for everyone from sophisticated gourmets to less experienced diners.
The philosophy behind Marco's cuisine and food and wine has resulted in a varied menu and a wide selection of natural wines that draw from local traditions, from the neighbouring Valtellina valley and from other Italian regions, with a particular selection from the Friuli region. From Istria there are the malvasia wines and those from the vitovska vine indigenous to the Karst region noted for its climatic contrasts and brackish land that lies between the sea and the mountains. In the future, the cellar will be further expanded with new labels from Eastern Europe. At Morris there is no wine list as such, with Marco suggesting suitable wines after asking diners for their preferences in terms of aroma, provenance and type of grape. Among the wines available are the so-called orange wines, which are particular favourites of the host, whose orange colour comes from prolonged contact first of the must, and then of the wine, with the skins of white grapes.
The menu changes weekly according to the availability of products from the selected suppliers and is handwritten on paper, as was the case in the old days in the popular trattorias. The choice is restricted to ensure the highest quality of ingredients and best care in the preparation of the dishes, three for each course, with a starter, a first course, a main course and a dessert. Among the best known and requested dishes are the vitello tonnato made without the use of mayonnaise, as per tradition, the baccalà mantecato with seasonal vegetables and the tagliatelle with cockscomb ragout.
The cosy and pleasant ambience of Da Morris Vineria e Cucina also lends itself to the taking of aperitifs, accompanied by platters of Italian cured meats and cheeses, and to sipping a glass of wine with friends after dinner. During the summer, the small courtyard typical of those of historic Lombard villages also welcomes the customers.