Photography by Agota Lukytè
In Via Vitani, one of the oldest and most authentic streets in the historic centre of Como, stands one of the city’s last true osterias. It goes by the name of Osteria del Gallo, and it has been run with care and passion for 41 years by Giuseppe De Toma and his wife Rosanna. Even from outside you get a sense of the cosy, homely atmosphere of the osteria, with many wines and local products displayed in the window and the three wooden chairs and old wine crates arranged along the frontage. Above the door there is the beautiful restaurant sign, in the traditional style of the village tavern, flanked by the iconic yellow SIP telephone sign giving an additional retro touch to the setting.
On entering you are immediately stuck by the old-world atmosphere of this place that seems to emanate from the wooden furniture itself, the green-and-white chequered tablecloths and the countless paintings, newspaper clippings, and photographs that cover the walls. The emblematic figure of the tavern is however the cockerel. It is a friendly creature that appears in every corner of the restaurant and in a wide variety of forms, whether on plates and jugs, in drawings, or in the many objets d’art and small sculptures.
The dishes in the Gallo's kitchen have been perfected over the years by Silvia, Rosanna and Giuseppe's daughter, who has dedicated herself with great passion to continuous research into the Italian tradition, using simple and genuine ingredients, developing a philosophy of home cooking centred on the taste and quality of raw materials. Today this legacy is carried on with commitment and care by the two chefs, who keep alive the values that distinguish Rosanna and Giuseppe's osteria.
The gastronomic proposal changes daily, depending on the availability and seasonality of the products. The few dishes that make up the menu - always prepared with the utmost care - are displayed verbally by Rosanna, as in the traditional taverns of the past. Some of the most recurring dishes are cheese focaccia accompanied by selected cold cuts, including in particular the 'brisaola' from Chiavenna, fresh ravioli, pizzoccheri, soups, braised meats with polenta, various fish from the lake when available, osso buco and meatballs 'mondeghili', savoury pies, offered in different variations, and local cheeses.
Also typical of the Osteria del Gallo is the rich plate of mixed vegetables, different according to the season, steamed daily. The meal is rounded off with various sweet dishes, such as creme caramel, apple pie and tarts, all homemade.
On the right wall a large wooden cabinet houses hundreds of wines from various parts of Italy and some much sought-after wines from Lebanese, Greek and Armenian vineyards. Osteria del Gallo's large wine menu reflects Giuseppe’s own passions as he reminds his guests that wine should be considered as a real food and a part of gastronomic experience itself, and not just an accompanying drink. The success of the osteria is assured by its use of simple but excellent ingredients, the warm and comfortable environment in which to enjoy genuine dishes, and service that is always polite and hospitable.