Photography by Agota Lukytè
Amidst the charming cobbled streets leading from the Regina to the shore, stands a cooperative that for 95 years has served as a meeting place for the inhabitants of the beautiful village of Cernobbio. Having become a popular destination for luxury tourism in recent years, the cosy and Bohemian atmosphere of the traditional cooperative clubs of the 1930s can still be breathed in this small corner of the village. For the past fifteen years the restaurant has been managed by Claudia, who has succeeded in reinvigorating the osteria's cuisine with rustic dishes from the local tradition that have also have influences from other Italian regions, often with new twists and unexpected flashes of creativity.
At the Osteria del Beuc, that is 'del Buco' [local dialect for “hole”, or “den” in this case], lake fish dishes are on the men you can enjoy dishes based on fish caught by local fishermen working on the lake, notably the typical Como missoltini, agoni in carpione, or even risotto with perch, surely one of the best-loved dishes of all Como's culinary tradition. Inevitably polenta also features, served in numerous variations, as well as the fresh homemade desserts. From the starters, we would especially recommend the gnocchi fritti, a favourite among the young and old alike.
Claudia and her friendly staff welcome cooperative members all day long who come to the osteria to play cards, read the newspaper or simply chat over a classic bianchino [light white wine]. Ideal if you are just passing by, the Osteria del Beuc also offers flavoursome aperitifs with platters of cured meats and cheeses from the valleys, accompanied by Italian wines carefully selected from the wide range offered by the La Cantina wine shop, a close neighbour of the Beuc.
The space is generous, able to seat up to eighty diners, and the large wooden tables lend themselves to convivial meals in company as well as to small receptions in an informal setting, but one in which nothing is left to chance. Over the years a number of carefully considered renovations have been carried out, such as the recovery of the spectacular art deco window frames, with the aim of conserving the original style of the cooperative, whose original sign can still be seen on the right wall. The prints on the walls and the 1960s lamps illuminating the counter are rather beautiful, while the marble Palladian floor is certainly worthy of mention, giving as it does the whole place a certain retro charm.
In summer the number of seats doubles due to the two outdoor areas that come into play, that is the delightful inner courtyard, finely decorated with plants and evocative outdoor lighting, and the small stone path that leads from the restaurant down to the lake, offering customers a picturesque setting and one of the most beautiful views of Cernobbio.